Tuscany Adventures -- Volterra and Lucca

 Since we'd rented a car for the two weeks in Tuscany, we drove from Siena to Lucca, stopping at a town called Volterra along the way. Volterra was originally an Etruscan settlement, and you can still see the remains of the some of the walls; it also has Roman ruins, including an impressive amphitheater. 

Volterra is also known worldwide for its beautiful alabaster work, and alabaster shops dot the streets. You can buy everything from simple earrings to huge, intricate vases or animals. 

We also ate lunch in Volterra, at a place called Don Beta--I had a prosciutto and cream tortellini with sage, as well as some pears with honey and parmesan. Elowen got some pillowy soft gnocchi with wild boar bolognaise, but she wasn't in the mood to eat, so she had some fruit snacks and watched the Grinch (again). 

If I had a do-over on the trip, I'd definitely spend a night in Volterra--it was beautiful and we left a lot unexplored. 

From there it was on to Lucca, where we'd stay for three nights. I loved Lucca--it's compact and so easily walkable, with interesting architecture around every corner. And even though it rained every day, it still felt so cozy with all of the twinkling Christmas lights and trees.

In fact, right across from our hotel was a little Christmas market. Elowen rode the carousel, and we decided not to buy her a pet rabbit. 

We stayed at a hotel called the Grand Universe, which has been a hotel since 1857 and hosted all kinds of guests, from philosophers to poets to even Puccini (who composed La Boheme and Madame Butterfly). The staff greeted us with a welcome drink of sparkling cranberry juice, and the lobby was peaceful in shades of cream and pink. Our room was spacious and quiet, yet we could step outside into the lively streets of the town. Before we explored, though, we had a raspberry and cream Christmas cocktail--yum!

The facade of the Church of San Michele in Foro is stunning, with greens and pinks and intricate designs of beasts and flowers and designs; I did not expect to see a mummified saint inside, but there he was! San Daveno Armeno.

I also regret not going inside this beautiful church now that I realize there's a mummified peasant girl inside--the incorruptible St. Zita (so called because when her body was exhumed, it was browned and wizened but not decayed. Also, Catholics, you are weird people). Anyway, the church is the Basilica of San Frediano, and the gorgeous mosaic on the front is from the 13th century. 

For dinner, we ate at a Osteria Baralla, and Elowen and I shared tagliatelle with wild boar bolognaise (they're big on boar in Tuscany). Taylor had one of the dishes Tuscany is most famous for, bistecca della Fiorentina, which is an Italian beefsteak from a young steer cooked over charcoal embers. 

I also had two desserts at the hotel--a trifle with custard cream and some sort of very thin, crunchy fruit-and-but bread, and then a panna cotta with berries and salted caramel. 

Also, I'm not sure if I just say panna cotta wrong or the Italians are messing with me, but they bring pina coladas? Definitely not what I want at the holidays in Italy. Elowen is learning the joy of biscotti dipped in tea, though.