First Day in Malta

It took almost ten long hours to get to Malta, guys. The drive to Gatwick was two hours because of traffic, and we waited in an insane security line for over an hour before sitting for two more and boarding the three-hour flight. Then we waited for our bags, tried five car seats in the rental car before finding one that wasn't broken, and learned that in Malta they drive on the British side of the road (makes sense since they were under British rule from 1813 to 1974, when they became an independent republic).

Whew.

And driving here is TERRIFYING. Narrow car-lined roads, people careening about like they're ready to meet their maker, Google maps saying make a right when there is no right to be made. (Spoiler alert, we turned the car in two days later and used taxis.)

We're staying at the Marriott Resort and Spa in St. Julian's, and it's a wonderful property--spacious and clean, with several restaurants. We also got upgraded to an ocean facing room and a nice welcome gift of cookies, wine, and sparkling water. Thank you Taylor for your status.

The breakfast is also amazing, with the attendant greeting Elowen with "good morning angel princess" and rushing to get her a juice. I especially enjoy the omelet station, because omelets are a near perfect food given how savory and endlessly customizable they are.  

Our first night there, since it was quite late, we ate at the hotel restaurant, and it was delicious! I had nduja risotto and it was delightfully spicy; I also had a violet gin fizz cocktail and then a port infused cocktail, both very good. For dessert, Elowen and I shared a pear and almond tart with French croissant infused ice cream. 

The next morning we decided we wanted a peaceful, no-car day and would walk to St. Julian's and Sliema, the neighboring town. And I HATED THEM. I wanted to hop on a boat to Sicily or go to Spain early if this was Malta--they're both incredibly disappointing places. This sounds ungrateful, I know, and Malta did get a lot better once we visited other towns...but damn do photos lie. St. Julian's is mainly for partying, I know, but it feels like being in a dirtier, Euro version of Vegas--fancy new hotels clashing against original buildings, nothing cultural, and construction everywhere. The "beach" is a narrow slice of sand with a KFC and a Holiday Inn Express nearby.

But from these pictures you'd never guess, right?

 

Sliema is the island's shopping "mecca," compared to what else I don't know. But there's also endless construction, holes and trash dumped everywhere so that it's almost impossible to navigate a stroller, and dog poop every few feet (which actually is most towns here so far, with the exception of Mdina and Valletta). A lot of it just looks like this. 

We walked eighteen thousand steps that day and I took about ten pictures, though I will say there's a beautiful view of Valletta across the water. 

The food, though, has been uniformly excellent. For lunch, we are at a waterfront place called Naar, with a lovely view of the cathedral. I had beef cheek ravioli in mushroom cream sauce, a strawberry gin cocktail, and a lavender matcha latte. 

For dinner, we ate at the coziest Italian place called Pepperoncino, where I had an absolutely amazing gorgonzola, bacon, and leek pasta. You could tell the pasta was handmade. 

Elowen has also been enjoying the kid pool hours in the heated pool spa, and the festive Fiat.

I do also wonder how many incidents occurred before the city sprang for this sign. 

Despite the amazing meals, I went to bed that night disappointed, because I'd built Malta up into a magical paradise from photos and blogs...and it did NOT live up to my expectations. But like I said, it got better! Stay tuned for a more positive post.